"What size do I pick if I have a larger waist size than hip size and can I grade between sizes?"
I often get asked this, and the simple answer is yes indeed you can! Even though the Persephone pants have no side seams, you can still grade between sizes. You will be grading at the front of the pants as well as the back of the pants, disregarding the side body area. I recommend sticking with one to two sizes apart. You can also let out the back darts for more room if needed.
FULLER WAIST TO HIP GRADING
Example: 14 waist/10 hips. Start at size 14 at the waist front/back and move down to size 10 at the end of the front crotch extension as well as the back notches. Continue down the leg for size 10, unless your thighs match size 14, in which case you would grade out, starting at the front and back crotch point and moving down the leg. Cut size 14 waistband and fly pattern pieces.
For the waistband and fly pattern pieces, choose the size based on your waist size.
Example: 14 waist/10 hips. Start at size 14 at the waist front/back and move down to size 10 at the end of the front crotch extension as well as the back notches. Continue down the leg for size 10, unless your thighs match size 14, in which case you would grade out, starting at the front and back crotch point and moving down the leg. Cut size 14 waistband and fly pattern pieces.
If you need to grade from a smaller waist to hip size, this essentially works the same (in reverse). The only difference is that you might consider adding side body darts in addition to grading between sizes, especially if you are more than one or two sizes apart.
SMALLER WAIST TO HIP GRADING
Example: 10 waist/14 hips. Start at size 10 at the waist front/back and move out to size 14 at the end of the front crotch extension as well as the back notches. Continue down the leg for size 14, unless your thighs match size 10, in which case you would grade in, starting at the front and back crotch point and moving down the leg. Cut size 10 waistband and fly pattern pieces.
Example: 10 waist/14 hips. Start at size 10 at the waist front/back and move out to size 14 at the end of the front crotch extension as well as the back notches. Continue down the leg for size 14, unless your thighs match size 10, in which case you would grade in, starting at the front and back crotch point and moving down the leg. Cut size 10 waistband and fly pattern pieces.
For the waistband and fly pattern pieces, choose the size based on your waist size.
Thank you Anna!
ReplyDeleteEverything I've wondered about grading pants is answered here.
You're such a great teacher.
I just bought the pattern and this is very helpful. I have another question. I am smaller than the pattern from the high hip through the high thigh.
ReplyDeleteWould I just follow your grading advice above, but actually grade into the body of the pattern? I imagine changing the lines on the center back and center front. For reference, I am a 27.5 waist and 34 hips with a 20" high thigh circumference.
Hello Iris! I think you sent me an email with this question, but I will reply here in case anyone else is curious. Yes, you can certainly grade below the smallest size. Just trace below size 0 by as much as you need to remove. If you are 1 whole size smaller, you would trace 1/4" inside the line. I hope that helps! Feel free to let me know if you need further help! :)
DeleteHello, I bought the pattern. I hesitate between to size. My waist is 32,7 and my hip 43,7.So with the body measurements I could sew 14 for the waist and 16 for the hip. But when I read the finished measurements I imagine that I could choose one size lower 12 and 14. What do you advise me?
ReplyDeleteMany thanks.
Hi Mariannick! Sorry for the late reply, I don't always see messages here. :) It does look like you could go with either size 12 or 14. I think a lot of people prefer sizing down with the Persephone pants for a tighter fit. But if you prefer to wear your garments with a bit more ease, I would stay with the size 14. I hope that helps!
Delete